Boise
Journal Magazine
December/January 2008 issue
Good Eats
Café Vicino
by Doug Copsey
If there is any truth at all to the theory
put forth in the eclectic 1992 film, "Like Water For
Chocolate" -that the emotional state of the chef affects
the taste of the food being prepared- then perhaps the best
description of Café Vicino's cuisine would be happy
food. Talking with Richard Langston and Steve Rhodes, you
can't help but feel like a day in the kitchen watching these
two iconic Boise chefs work would be almost as pleasurable
as enjoying their signature tomato basil soup, or the mouth-watering
fresh Halibut in a cherry tomato-caper sauce. Fifteen years
of sharing ideas and concocting menus for some of the finest
eateries in Boise no doubt has something to do with that.
"Steve was one of the first people I met when we moved
up from California," says Langston. "I got a job
at Amore and Steve was the lunch chef there."
When Rhodes, who first started working in kitchens at the
Gamekeeper when he was a junior in high school, decided
to get out of the restaurant business for a while, Langston
also left to open Richard's in Hyde Park. Who can forget
those incredible cinnamon rolls? The flood of customers
soon moved Richard's across the street, and Rhodes offered
to help out in the kitchen. "Just for fun," he
says with a wry grin. "I couldn't stay away for long,
it's my true passion."
When Rhodes got the itch to move again, Langston again followed
suit.
"There's a pattern here," says Langston with a
laugh. "When I sold my part of Richard's I didn't want
to own a restaurant for a while, but the longer I was away
from it the more I missed it."
After a three-year stint as Micron's corporate chef, Langston
had lost touch with Rhodes when his old friend called with
an invitation to his wedding.
"We started talking and we were both looking for our
own thing," says Rhodes, "so we started looking
together."
Six months of searching led them to the old Flip Side Café
space, and suddenly everything seemed to fall into place.
"The location was a lot of it," says Langston,
"because so much of our success in Hyde Park was based
on being in a neighborhood. We knew it would be important
to our success to draw on that same crowd."
Evidenced by the easy-going way these two culinary artists
interact, instinctively knowing what the other is trying
to say, even before he says it, often finishing each other's
sentences, joking and laughing-a lot of laughing-it's apparent
that working together again was like slipping into a comfortable
old pair of slippers.
Rhodes typically handles lunches and orders most of the
foodstuffs, while Langston does dinners and deals with the
front-of-the-house stuff like staff and the wine list. The
tradition of using local fare whenever possible, begun at
Richard's Across the Street, continues at Vicino, where
they use as many local vegetables as they can find, Idaho-raised
lamb, and northwest-raised beef.
"We've had a lot of fun working with local vendors
and getting to know them instead of just buying from mass
producers" Langston says. "Besides, the food's
just better. It doesn't have to travel as far."
Word of the new restaurant preceded the opening on March
19, 2007 (Rhodes' birthday), and for the first several weeks
they were booked solid. Still, everything came off with
no more than a few minor hitches.
"Credit to our staff," Langston insists. "We've
been really lucky. Several people who worked with us before
came and found us and said if we were opening a restaurant
they wanted to work for us. That's a real compliment and
we're very appreciative of that."
There have been a few changes, like adding carpet to improve
the acoustics, and this spring the landlord is planning
some streetscape improvements along Fort Street, but bottom
line, after a meal at Café Vicino, you're bound to
leave happier than when you came in.
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